Bolt on Modifications

Ford 5 speed type 9 conversion kit to 1275 Midget engine

using the Midget flywheel, Midget Clutch, A Roller Trust Bearing and Minor clutch operating lever.

There are many variations of fitting a Type 9, with different flywheel, clutch & Bearing combinations you really need to discuss your requirements with the supplier, mine was Morris Minor Centre Birmingham who were excellent.

Spigot bush

This special spacer-spigot bush holder sits in the Midget flywheel

This is how the one supplied in the kit measured up (drawing not to scale)

Bell Housing & Gubbins

Midget / Minor to Ford type 9 bell housing trial fit.

Thrust was off centre

The clutch operating lever arm fits to bespoke mounting bracket, had to file a couple mm off the arm so that it would fit in between the two uprights of the bracket, the pivot bolt goes through two elongated holes it the bracket so the arm can slide back & forth as the trust bearing slides along the input shaft sleeve of the gearbox.

View of  the roller thrust bearing fitted to a moggy clutch operating lever, the bearing comes into direct contact with the diaphragm fingers when the clutch is operated

This is a view of the thrust bearing footprint against the clutch diaphragm, as you can see its not centred correctly.

To centralise the trust bearing to the clutch and sleeve the bottom mounting bracket bolt hole needs to swing this far, I'll elongate hole.

I had to grind a few mm off this part of the inner bell housing as it was binding on the oil pump cover

Clutch alignment tool

Type 9 gearbox.

Remove, (break up if necessary) the old spigot bush from the deeper recess of
the crankshaft and press into the back of your flywheel (i.e. the engine side) the NEW special spigot bush supplied. Fit with small diameter end towards engine . Refit flywheel to engine and tap the steel part of the spigot bush in, to make sure it is hard against the crankshaft. Lubricate the oilite bush LIGHTLY with HMP grease. The spigot bush must be flush with the flywheel face on 1275 engines
but it will be slightly proud on 1098 engines.

The Mini slave has a spring inside the cylinder that pushes rod. lever and consequently the thrust bearing against the clutch diaphragm; as the thrust was in constant contact and constantly spinning it was starting to make a noise after 100 miles so I fitted a spring to pull the lever arm back about 5mm so that the trust clears the diaphragm. The spring is from the bonnet release mechanism and the bracket is 3mm steel bolted to the eye bolt.

 

Picked up a standard 1275 Midget engine from MidgetMax, then had it rebored +020" Crank reground, new cam bearings and Swift Tune 05-07 Cam , refurbed the standard head myself; regound the valves a drifted in new guides and fitted metro valve seals on the inlets. I will run the engine in with the standard head then fit a mildly ported larger valve head.

 

http://www.hurleyengines.co.uk/index.html done an excellent job, Paul Hurley knows his A series engines.

Drilled a couple of dimples for the retaining springs to sit in

Once everything is in and lined up with diff and check that the bell housing is clearing the rack- mark the gearbox mounting bolt holes on to the gearbox cross member, slide the gearbox the the side and drill your new hole, repeat on the other side. The instructions say jack up and support the gearbox remove the cross member and drill your holes. take your pick.

The new gearbox cross member utilises the old members bolts after hammering the drainage holes flat, new drainage should be drilled to the rear of your new member.

I had to swop the plastic Midget fan blade for the Minor steel one as it was hitting the radiator at the top, The front cross member was not an issue for me, I modified it about 8 years ago, its two pieces of 5mm flat bar welded together in the shape of a T. The original type of cross member may have been an issue because the Midget damper crank pulley.

Shortened Prop Shaft with Ford splined end

Shortened Handbrake and the longer fibreglass gearbox cover

Handbrake shortening instructions supplied with kit.

You will need to modify the handbrake lever before re-fitting. Remove the button (pulls off if plastic, unscrews if metal), the fibre washer, spring and stop washer and
cut through the OUTER CASING ONLY. Cut just behind the two small slots to shorten the casing by 45mm.Cut two new slots in the casing 40mm
from the end and tap in at rear of slots to form the peen. Refit stop washer to rod and then with the rod engaged on the teeth of the ratchet cut the rod so it is 3-4mm longer
than the casing. Refit spring, fibre washer and button. Replace button with new one if it won’t stay on (Part No.HBK1O3) Refit assembly to car.

I did mine slightly different, I shortened a spare lever with the button and spring missing. Punched out the rivet and removed the rod and paw, cut the lever as described above. Its important that you cut the two new slots dead in line with each other or the rod will jam on the stop washer. I then refitted the rod and paw and cut the rod as above, I then ran a 5mm thread die down the rod and fitted a shortened oil pressure relief spring, washer and 5mm nyloc nut, fitted it all together and flattened the rivet back in place, when my new plastic button arrived I screwed it on to the rod.

 

The original steel gearbox cover can be modified, spent a day playing with the plasma cutter, mig and some off cuts

My gold faced speedo.

I fitted a black faced speedo while this one was calibrated, I noted that the black faced unit has a different fuel gauge that has the electrical live feed running through a voltage regulator and a different type of sender in the fuel tank, so no fuel gauge for a couple of weeks

Had my speedo calibrated to take into account the type 9 gearbox, 3.9 diff and new wheels. Speedy Cables (London) ltd who I must say carried out a beautiful job, new chrome bezel, back plate, speedo head and glass!!

now set at 1093 TPM  (turns per mile)?